been working my lil keester off on all of da comps and the weirdness going down out here on the North Shore. But alas, I finally have a lil second to breath and I thought I'd leave you all with some updates of the haps out here on da rock.
photo cred: the talented Camilo Gabriel Lara Jr. @ Rebel Army Productions
Aside from non stop work, the occasional lead pipe cleaning, and a few weird beers, I've been trying to take advantage of the non stop waves here and surf my freaking brains out! Da waves have been pretty fun the whole time I've been here and when I'm fortunate enough to get a chance to surf, I've really developed a liking to the challenge and the strength that Poseidon puts forth out here in these Hawaiian waters. I've pretty much just stuck to surfing the elegant waves that grace their presence with the 7 mile miracle. Pretty much anywhere from Cammieland to an accidental quick run in with Pipe has been frothed by SAH and his crew. However, after all of the spots I've shralped this past month, even though it's a treadmill and crowded with pros who big shot me left and right, I'd still have to say Rocky Point is one of my favorite waves out here. Not that I get uber fanned out easily or anything like that, but it's pretty clear that Rocky's holds an arsenal of pro shralpers that would easily put the good average surfer (like yours truly) to shame any day with only one wave!
The Vans Triple Crown of Surfing has produced some stellar performances in a varying degree of waves. Haleiwa's first couple of rounds saw meager surf that gradually picked up and produced some sick ass pits for guys like Parko, Tanner Gudauskas, and event winner Joel Centeio to get their froth on! By the end of the comp, the final was stacked and the dudes were shacked! It was pretty sick seeing the final go down right before my red eyes and truly realize how talented the guys out here are as they boosted mental tail wafts, floater tweaks galore, round house slap arounds, and wooping crane carves.
The O'Neill World Cup of Surfing is seeing its last few days, and let me just say the waves are fuckin crazy! I was surfing Cammieland for a quick second yesterday and what started as 3ft fun rippable waves quickly turned into 10ft shallow ass death bombs! I almost shat myself several times as freak sets would gyrate over the horizon and would leave the line up scattering for the nearest oxygen bubble or channel that wasn't closing out. Needless to say, Sunset has been producing monster drops, mental pits, and some burly rights that will either eat you alive or give you one of the rides of your life, if you survive. Tomorrow should be the Final day of the Sunset comp filled with some of the best and bravest surfing in the world! Good luck fellas!
With some of the World's best waves and best contests going down on a 7 mile miracle stretch of beach, it's kinda inevitable that you see a familiar face every now and then. It just so happens that these faces have graced all the surf vids, mags, and sites that we all grew up frothing over as groms! So far I've pretty much seen every one who's anyone (except for Chicken Willy and Chris Brown) in the surf world all jam packed out here on da rock. Whether it was shredding in the water, lurking on the land, or myrting at the bar, I seen da following rippers tearing apart pretty much whatever they could get their hands on:
The Gudauskas bros never cease to amaze me with their frothing and shralping skillz!
Nate Fletcher was charging death shacks at Off The Wall like a freaking mad man with Danny Fuller
Sean Moody and Mikey B were up in the mix ripping da left at Monster Mush
Eric Geiselman was making some rad beats on Garage Band at the Fox house and throwing down sick ass Kerrupt flips at Rocky's
Jordy Smith was up in da mix kicking ass at Ehukai and taking names at the PJ Bud Light party
Jay Bottle Thompson was throwing down sick ass larrys at Cammieland along with Hawaii rippa Torrey Meister
Girl rippas Coco Ho, Steph Gilmore, and Paige Hareb were shreddin me outa da water like you wouldn't believe
The list goes on but I'll stop here until more mad shiz pops up!
Po Po of The Ampal Creative frothed out here for a few weeks and was a definite asset to what will surely be a rad 2009 Triple Crown TV Show.
Local boy Kelly was nice enough to take us haole boys in and show us the true loc experience as we surfed the best sports, ate the best poke, and experienced a truly unforgettable story time experience as North Shore legend by the name of "Hail Yeah" dropped knowledge on us about his time spent shaping with Dick Brewer and surfing the North Shore before we were even mega groms.
Chuck McMoses was in full force out here on da rock and was helping the Fox team push things to the limit and take their shralping skills to the next level.
It's freaking Hawaii, nuff said...
Stay tuned for more updates once I escape my ape cage. Until then my friends, keep it sleezy...